Wood Turning a Sphere with Resin

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I have made a wood turned sphere that is half wood, half resin. On the surface of the wood covered by resin, I CNC milled a texture made from a terrain model of Newberry Crater in Oregon. When you look through the clear resin, you can see the tiny model of the crater and the surrounding landscape. I used Yorkshire Grit to polish the sphere.

resin: https://www.alumilite.com
yorkshire grit: https://yorkshire-grit.com/
CNC: http://www.cncrouterparts.com/
wood turning tools: https://carterandsontoolworks.com/

Tools used in this project can be found at http://www.frankmakes.com/

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46 ответов на “Wood Turning a Sphere with Resin”

  1. Started cracking up when you did the voiceover about how the hot glue is totally not going to work to keep the resin from running out. Just a few seconds before, that's exactly what I was thinking, based on very unhappy experience.

  2. Mr. Howarth, what about the possibility of using vacuum instead of pressure. Vacuum might actually cause the resin to be pulled into the surface, and also lower the occurrence of bubbles in the resin. I think your pressure rig would work just as good as a vacuum chamber. The bubbles in this piece do look rather neat though. Kind of like ejecta from an impact. Very cool video by the way, very inspiring!

  3. You are pressurizing your pot to make the bubbles smaller. Perhaps pulling a vacuum on the pot would draw the bubbles out altogether. That is what knife makers do when "stabilizing" the scales for knives. Indirectly people who resin-cover wood tables do the same. They heat the unset resin with a torch causing the bubble to grow and rise in the resin until it pops on the surface. Again it is the pressure differential which gets results.

    The object in both cases is to increase both the size and buoyancy of the bubbles to get them to rise to the top and burst.

  4. For turning perfect sphere's on a lathe, place a board or paper with a circle drawn on it directly under the piece to be turned and a light above. The light will cast a shaddow and when it matches the line on the board / paper, turn the piece in the lathe and do the same with the unturned ends and you end up with a sphere. :).

  5. Love the way it came out and I totally appreciate your sharing your thoughts on what you would do differently next time — I'm just embarking on the resin journey myself. If you can get some Yorkshire grit original, use that first before applying the YG microfine, that way you'd probably only need the one application of each.

  6. You should invest in making a set of fractional half jaws so you can accommodate any size like may throw at you. Considering this is woodwork, aluminium (a stouter blend) should suffice, so the price won't jump in space. You could even cut them yourself with your CNC.

  7. You could have turned the plywood around, with the relief cuts on the outside. And stabilise the wood under pressure with slow set resin before cutting it to stop it leaking bubbles into your "dome".

    But either way, it's bloody gorgeous.

  8. Next time, coat the surface of the wood with a light brush of the same resin you're pouring, leave it to dry, then take your pour to the next step. And turn the plywood ring with the cuts outside.

  9. If you do it again you could try exaggerating the differences in elevation. I’d suggest the website “terrain to stl” and there you can exaggerate the elevation so the highs are higher and the lows are lower. Might look pretty cool🤷‍♂️

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